The perfect almond - how to build almond-shaped nails correctly
Would you like to know how to create the perfect almond-shaped nails? Check the latest episode on our YouTube channel and learn from Indigo's master tips.
Is almond one of the most popular nail shapes among your customers? If you're still looking for the perfect almond way, this episode is something you need to see - whether you're a beginner or intermediate Nail Stylist. Katarzyna Glińska - Indigo Young from the Indigo Headquarters in Łódź - shows step by step, how to build a perfect almond-shaped gel nail look.
How to properly build and extend almond-shaped nails?
- The first step of any nail styling is DISINFECTION. The customer washes their hands, the Stylist disinfects theirs and puts on gloves, then disinfects the customer's hands, checks the condition of the nail plate, and only then starts performing the treatment.
- We push back the cuticles with a bit no.9. We don't want to remove them at this stage, so as not to cut them when filing.
- We mat the nail plate with a buffer, wipe with a purple Cleaner, apply an acid-free Primer.
- We apply a small amount of the Perfect Base and rub it into the nail plate with a gel brush. Cure it for 30 seconds.
- It's time to place the form. Before we do this, we need to check how the nail grows. We place the form so that the end of the built nail is at the same height as the cuticles. We cut the form, so it adheres to the natural tunnel of the nail perfectly. It's essential for the gel, not flow under the nail plate.
- We stick the form, making sure that the wings are joined evenly and clamp it, up to 2 or 3 numbers lower than the planned nail length. If we want to build a nail up to 3, then we clamp it at 5 or 6.
- We clamp it fully, that will help us get the almond shape.
- We're building the construction base. Using Take Your Time, we brush the whole nail plate, then spread the gel on the free edge line, and stretch it sideways. We use the tip of the brush. While applying the base, we are continually thinking about the shape we want to achieve.
Take Your Time, as the name suggests, is a gel which you do not have to hurry with using. No matter how much time it will take us to build the base, it won't flow. Even in summer, i.e. when gel products become more fluid due to the temperature.
- We connect the extended nail with a natural nail plate by dragging the gel threads.
- While creating a construction of the side edges, we apply the gel a little lower than we want these edges to finally look, to have some surface to file at the very end. It's better to apply more product than to apply too little. We cure the construction base in the lamp for 60 seconds. It may burn in the lamp - Take Your Time is a hard gel. If it happens, you have to reach out for a few seconds and put it back into the lamp again.
- We pull the form down, being careful not to break the construction.
- We move on to the building stage of the nail. We apply Light Rose, and starting from the slip layer first, we brush the gel along the entire length.
- We apply gel approximately to the centre of the nail. We will do that from top to bottom. First, we apply the product at the cuticles, holding the brush at an angle of 30-40 degrees. We do not press the brush to the surface. We work with a pulsating movement. We don't put the brush deep into the gel, just move the product, gently touching the surface.
- Once we have spread the gel from the cuticles to the free edge, we move to the apex, the highest point of the extended nail. Still with the same pulsating movement. We smooth the surface with the tip of the brush. We work along, but also across. Once we have got the right shape, we put our hand into the lamp and at 12-15 seconds pull out the nail to tighten the tunnel.
- We tap the nail gently with the tool to check if the nail cured enough. If we can hear this characteristic "empty sound', it's a sign that the gel has cured not only on the top but also inside - and will not flow out during clamping. The clamping moment is directly related to the lamp condition and product quantity. The more product, the longer the curing time - the nail stylist must feel it. With our lamps, it's 12-15 seconds, but if we were to work on another lamp, this moment would come a little later.
- We first clamp the tunnel in the stress area, for about 2-3 seconds, and then along the entire length, and put the nail together with the clamping tool back into the lamp. Cure for 30 -60 seconds.
Note! Bear in mind not to clamp the tunnel too tight, because we can damage the natural nail plate. Clamping the tunnel is not mandatory, we can do this in a different way, placing the form and thus obtain a tunnel. It's important to keep the shape of the tunnel. It protects the nail from mechanical damage and from breaking.
Perfect almond - how to file gel nails?
Before we move to the filing, a few words about the apex. It should be placed approximately one-third of the length of the nail. Its correct construction is not only its aesthetics but also the durability of the built nail and safety for the natural nail plate. If we file the apex too much in the middle of the nail, the centre of gravity will shift. This means the nails will not be properly strengthened, and thus become less resistant to damage. How high can the apex be? It's a matter of aesthetics. Every Nail Stylist has own style. But it can't be too flat, so the construction of the nail won't lose its stability.
- We move to the filing. We use a file with 180 grit. When filing the sides, we hold the file parallel to the shape of the nail. When filing the free edge, we compare the length from time to time. The ring and pointing fingers should be the same length.
- We move to the cuticle area. We did not cut them earlier so as not to cut them now. Giving the shape of the C curve, we hold the file across, without pulling back the file off the nail. With a zigzag movement, we move towards the free edge.
- Now we file the sides of the curve C, but let's not file it, because we may file it off. When thinning the hairline, hold the file straight.
- And finally - side edges. An element that can ruin everything if we get carried away. The key with the side edges is that they are first an extension of the natural nail, and only then they go up. If we immediately start filing the edges up (holding the file at an angle), we'll file them off, what will weaken the entire construction.
- After we finished giving the shape, we smooth the surface with a buffer to remove scratches.
- It's time to get rid of the cuticles. Again, we go for bit No. 9, and this time we drive it into the cuticles a bit harder than when preparing the nail. We not only get rid of cuticles but also smooth out the line between the natural nail plate and the built hairline. Dust it off.
- Now we ask the customer to wash her hands - to get rid of nail dust or cuticle residue.
- We apply Tip Top, cure and.... our perfect almond is ready.
Remember, there are many nail styling schools. In this tutorial, we've presented the method, Indigo Educators learn at our courses. More information about the courses can be found on our website in the tab COURSES. If you'd like to get more info about Indigo Educators, just go to Instagram, and enter hashtags #indigowarszawa, #indigogdańsk etc.